Cuba is spending $2 billion to upgrade its public transportation system and has imported 3000 modern buses to run in and around the capital.
First comes, the stink of diesel, then a metallic roar, and finally a tower of black smoke that tells you the “camello” the camel has reached your stop in Havana. These hulking 18-wheeled beasts, iron mutants made of two Soviet-era buses welded together on a flatbed and pulled by a separate cab, have long been Havana’s public transport nightmare bumpy, hot and jammed with up to 400 passengers at a time.
But their gradual disappearance is a telling sign of change in the twilight of the Fidel Castro age.
The last “camello” is expected to go out of service in Havana in April.
The camello, so named for its humped front and rear sections, is being eclipsed by 3000 new city buses from China as government under Castro’s brother, Raul, resuscitates a public transportation system on the brink of collapse.
“I think we should build a monument to the camello,” said retiree Salvador Carrera, a camello passenger. “It has been an extraordinary thing.”
The capital aside, camellos are far from extinct. The government has an island-wide fleet of more than 1,000, and those from Havana could be used to augment bus service elsewhere, transportation employees say. “We can carry up to 400 people. The bus cannot, “lamented conductor Estela Doira.”I’m happy, also sad, because the camello handles a lot more than the bus. “The camello was born in response to fuel shortages in the early 1990’s, when the Soviet Union collapsed and Cuba lost its annual $6 billion in subsidies.
The economy has since recovered thanks to heavy borrowing for China and nearly 100,000 barrels of oil a day for Venezuela.
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